CABLED T

CABLED TEE

Pattern written by Patricia Brunner for Ample-Knitters, May 2004, Rev A

This pattern is based on a design by Maureen Taylor, a member of the Ample Knitters' List. It's written to be very versatile so there are lots of choices. Please read through all the information before you start.

SIZES

Since this is a site for Ample Knitters the size range is from 1X thru 5X. Before you choose a size be sure you compare your measurements to those on the SCHEMATIC and MEASUREMENT TABLE.

The length of the sweater is a standard 26" for all sizes but you can add or subtract to the length, just be sure you add or subtract that amount to the measurements in the pattern.

Note: As shown in the schematic, the top of the front is longer than the back. The pattern is designed so that the need to split the back for a shaped back neckline is eliminated. The shaping is moved to the neck edges on the front. This puts the shoulder seam 1 inch toward the back but the sleeves are centered in the armhole as usual and it doesn't affect the hang of the garment. The extensions from the top of the front neck edges shown in the schematic are the continuation of the cable edging to be sewn to the back neckline.

MEASUREMENT TABLE

all measurements are in inches		1X	2X	3X	4X	5X
A	width front and back	25 3/4	28	30 1/4	32 1/2	34 3/4
B	bottom to armhole	15 7/8	15 1/2	15	14 5/8	14 5/8
C	armhole depth	10 1/8	10 1/2	11	11 3/8	11 3/8
D	bottom to neck V	17 3/4	17 3/8	17 1/4	17	17
E	neck depth	8 1/4	8 5/8	8 3/4	9	9
F	shoulder	4 1/4	4 3/4	5	5 1/8	5 1/4
G	neck width	6 1/4	6 1/2	6 3/4	7	7 1/4
H	bottom edge of sleeve	16 1/2	17 3/4	18 3/4	19 1/2	20
J	sleeve width	18	19 1/2	20 3/4	21 1/4	22
K	underarm sleeve length	2 3/4	2 3/4	2 3/4	2 3/4	2 3/4
L	sleeve length	10 7/8	10 7/8	12 1/4	13 1/8	13 3/4

YARN CHOICES

The pattern is written for a wide choice of yarns. The directions are based on three gauges - 5 1/2 stitches per inch or DK (Double Knitting) weight, US size 6 - 7 needle; 5 stitches per inch or Worsted weight, US size 8 needle; and 4 1/2 stitches per inch or Heavy Worsted or Bulky weight, US size 9 or 10. The ball band on your yarn usually gives a recommended gauge and needle size.

Since this is a short sleeved T, a logical choice is cotton. Be aware that 100% cotton will almost always shrink when washed (mostly in length) so be sure to treat your swatch as you will your garment. Also, a cotton garment in plus sizes and bulky yarn can be very heavy and it can stretch in either length or width. A cotton/synthetic blend would be an excellent choice since the synthetic is lighter weight than the cotton and it will keep the cotton from shrinking. Look for blends with acrylic, nylon or microfiber. The yarn used in Swatches 1 and 2 (below) is Schoeller Esslinger "Spumante," a cotton/nylon with a terry texture. The yarn used in Swatch 3 is Patons "Paradisio," a 100% cotton with a thick and thin texture.

Other choices are cotton and natural fiber blends, rayon, lyocel or Tencel (similar to rayon), 100% acrylic, silk, linen, hemp, and any number of synthetic or natural fiber novelty yarns including tapes and ribbons.

Below is a ball park estimate of yardages needed. Your mileage may vary. All yardages given for the sizes listed are based on the standard 26" length. If you plan to make a different length see the calculation directions below.

YARN YARDAGE TABLE

sts/inch	1X	2X	3X	4X	5X
5 1/2	1280 yds	1372 yds	1464 yds	1551 yds	1655 yds
5	1198	1292	1381	1458	1547
4 1/2	1038	1112	1191	1264	1330

TO CALCULATE YARN AMOUNTS FOR OTHER LENGTHS

If you want to make your sweater longer or shorter than the standard 26" you can calculate the extra amount using the following factors and formula:

FACTOR - 5 1/2 sts/in .89 yds

5 sts/in .84 yds

4 1/2 sts/in. .71 yds

FORMULA - factor x # of inches added or subtracted x (front width + back width) = # of yds to add or subtract.

For example: If you are using the lightest weight yarn at 5 1/2 sts per inch and you want to add 2 inches in length to a size 2X - .89 yds x 2" x (28" + 28") = 99.7 yards.

IMPORTANCE OF GAUGE

Since this pattern is not written for a particular yarn, it's even more important than usual to make sure you are knitting to the gauge specified, especially the stitch gauge. You must knit a swatch in stockinette at least 5 x 5 inches and preferably larger. If your gauge is off, change needle sizes and re-knit the swatch. An error of only 1/8 of a stitch per inch can result in the body of a size 1X being 3 inches too big or too small. The gauge information is listed at the beginning of the PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS.

DESIGN CHOICES

Construction - The sweater is knitted in pieces and sewn but if you would rather convert the body to in-the-round just add the front and back stitch counts together and eliminate a selvage stitch for each edge (4 sts total). In the cable directions on even numbered rows K the knit sts and P the purls.

Cables - I've included two choices of double cable patterns ≠ 6 x 6 and 8 x 8. The standard 8 x 8 double cable is shown in Swatch #1. I've also included an optional variation that adds a twisted purl st between the two cables so you can choose the one you like best. Swatch #2 is an 8 x 8 with the center purl st. and Swatch #3 is a 6 x 6 also with the center st.

Borders/Edgings - There are patterns for 3 choices of borders included (see STITCH PATTERNS below). If you want ribbing, the 2 x 1 Twisted Cable Rib coordinates with the Double Cable and is a good choice for cotton and rayon yarn. If you use a gentle, well behaved yarn, you may be able to do a simple border like the one on the bottom left of Swatch 3, it's a Reverse Stockinette. For an easy wider border there's Garter shown on the bottom right of Swatch 3, and if you want a tunic split hem with vents the Garter Edging is shown on the right side of Swatch 3. Of course, you can do a standard K1, P1 rib or choose any other edging you wish. Consider using needles one or two sizes smaller to work borders, especially the non-ribbed ones.

STITCH PATTERNS

Abbreviations are listed at end of Pattern Instructions. Brackets [ ] indicate optional st.

Double (Horseshoe) Cable, 8 by 8 - 20 [21] sts

Row 1 - P 2, sl next 4 sts to cn and hold in back, K 4 then K 4 from cn, [opt - P 1 tbl], sl next 4 sts to cn and hold in front, K 4 then K 4 from cn, P 2.

Rows 2, 4, 6, 8 and 10 - K 2, P 8, [K 1 tbl], P 8, K 2.

Rows 3, 5, 7 and 9 - P 2, K 8, [P 1 tbl], K 8, P 2.

Double (Horseshoe) Cable, 6 by 6 - 16 [17] sts

Row 1 - P 2, sl next 3 sts to cn and hold in back, K 3 then K 3 from cn, [opt - P 1 tbl], sl next 3 sts to cn and hold in front, K 3 then K 3 from cn, P 2.

Rows 2, 4, 6, and 8 - K 2, P 6, [K 1 tbl], P 6, K 2.

Rows 3, 5, and 7 - P 2, K 6, [P 1 tbl], K 6, P 2.

Twisted Cable Rib - multiple of 3 sts

Row 1 (WS) - P 2, K 1.

Row 2 - P1, skip the first st and K the second st, leaving it on the needle; K the skipped st and sl both sts from the needle together.

Repeat Rows 1 and 2 as desired.

Reverse Stockinette Border

CO specified number of sts.

R 1 (WS) - K.

R 2 - P.

Garter Border

CO specified number of sts.

R 1 - K.

Repeat for as many rows as desired.

To use as an edge treatment for a side split or vent - K first and last 3 sts of every row for as many rows as desired.

PATTERN INSTRUCTIONS

Abbreviations are listed at end of Pattern Instructions.

GAUGE	YARN WEIGHT	NEEDLE SIZE *
5 1/2 = 22 sts/29 rows per 4 in.	DK or Double Knitting	US 7
5 = 20 sts/27 rows per 4 in.	Worsted	US 8
4 1/2 = 18 sts/25 rows per 4 in.	Heavy Worsted or Bulky	US 9

* Needle size given is only a suggestion. Choose size to achieve correct gauge.

Follow the tables below based on your size and gauge. Brackets [ ] indicate options. Use a highlighter to mark your copy for size and gauge.

FRONT

5 1/2

4 1/2

5 1/2

4 1/2

5 1/2

4 1/2

5 1/2

4 1/2

5 1/2

4 1/2

CO # sts.

142

128

116

154

140

126

166

152

136

178

162

146

192

174

156

Row 1 (WS) - Work # sts of border patt if using the 8 x 8 Double Cable [if using the 6 x 6 work 1 st more], K 2, P 4 [P 3], [ M1 if using center P st in cable], P 4 [P3], K 2, continue in border patt to end of row.

Next Row - Work same # of border patt sts as Row 1, P2, K 4 [K 3], [P 1 tbl], K4 [K 3], P 2, cont in border patt to end of row.

Next Row (WS) - Work same # of border patt sts as Row 1 [or if using Reverse Stockinette Border begin working in stockinette by purling same # of sts], K 2, * M1, P 1, repeat 3 times from * for 8 x 8 cable [repeat 2 times from * for 6 x 6 cable]; [K1 tbl], * P 1, M1, repeat 3 times from * for 8 x 8 cable [repeat 2 times from * for 6 x 6 cable]; K2, work border or [P] to end of row.

Next Row - Work to center sts and begin Row 1 of Double Cable patt, work to end of row.

Next Rows - Continue to work cable pattern over center sts and chosen border patt for as many rows as desired then change to stockinette (K RS and P WS) above the border sts for remainder of Front. Work until piece measures # inches [if making garment longer or shorter add that amount to the #].

15 7/8

15 1/2

14 5/8

Armhole Shaping

BO # sts at beginning of next 2 rows.

Next Row - Continue shaping armhole ER # times by K2tog (RS) or SSP (WS) after the first st and SSK or P2tog before the last st

then decrease EOR # times.

Split for Neckline

Left Front

At the same time, when piece measures # inches [add lengthen or shorten amount to #]

17 3/4

17 3/8

17 1/4

on a RS row, work across row to last 2 stockinette sts before cable patt, SSK; work to center of cable [if using center P st, SSK the last st of the cable and the P st], turn and work WS row, cont cable sts in pattern.

Continue to work in patt making specified decreases at armhole and decrease for neckline at edge of cable pattern as above every 3rd row # more times

Work until piece measures 26 inches [add lengthen or shorten amount] ending on a WS row.

Next Row (RS) - Work across row to st before cable patt, M1, K 1, work to end of row.

Next Row - Work cable patt, P1, M1. K to end of row.

Continue these two rows until piece measures 27 inches [add lengthen or shorten amount].

Put Stockinette sts plus 1 P st from cable on st holder for shoulder seam and continue working cable for 2 1/2 more inches.

Put cable sts on st holder and break yarn leaving a 10" tail.

Right Front - Work as for Left Front, joining yarn at center of neckline on RS and reversing all shaping.

BACK

CO same # sts as for FRONT and work same as FRONT omitting the cable patt and neckline split. Work until piece measures 25 inches [add lengthen or shorten amount]. Leave sts on needle.

Place Left Front shoulder stitches on another needle and do a 3 Needle BO across an equal number of BACK shoulder sts. Repeat for Right Front.

Sew cable edging to remaining live Back sts, adjusting ends to meet in center Back. Graft or sew cable sts together using 10" tail.

SLEEVES make 2

CO # sts.

104

108

110

100

Work chosen border as desired and beginning with Row 2 increase every # row / # times (M1 after 1^st st and before last st).

4^th/4

4^th/5

3^rd/5

Note: if you are using a ribbed or similar border and would rather not make incs in the border rows, work the border straight and make the correct # of evenly space incs across the first stockinette row.

After working border, switch to stockinette and continuing incs if any, work until piece measures 2 7/8 inches for sizes 1X and 2X or 2 3/4 inches for sizes 3X, 4X and 5X.

Begin Sleeve Cap Shaping

Next 2 Rows - BO # sts at beginning of row.

Continue shaping sleeve EOR # times by K2tog (RS) or SSP (WS) after the first st and SSK or P2tog before the last st.

Work straight until piece measures # inches from bottom.

9 7/8

11 1/4

12/18

12 3/4

Decrease at beginning and end of next 5 rows.

Next Row - BO rem sts.

FINISHING

Mark the center at the top of each sleeve. Measure 1 inch forward from the shoulder seam on each armhole. Match the sleeve and armhole marks and pin the sleeve to the armhole. Sew sleeves to armholes. Sew side and underarm seams.