Brown Sheep’s High Mesa Cardigan
Pattern by Sidna Farley
The motif in this sweater reminds me of Native American motifs. This pattern stitch is adapted from twined or two-end knitting, but is much easier to do since only a single yarn is used. This cardigan would also be attractive using just the swag st on the shoulders and borders.
SIZES:
Unisex sizes: M, L (XL, XXL)
FINISHED MEASUREMENTS:
45, 49 (54, 58)". When there are just 2 numbers the first refers to the smaller 2 sizes the one in () refers to the larger 2 sizes. Only one number refers to all sizes. (See sweater schematic below.)
Brown Sheep Lamb's Pride Superwash Bulky. (100% wool; 100 g skein - 110 yds) 10, 11 (14, 15) skeins
size #8 circular needle 24"
size #10 circular needle 24" and 16" and set of dpn or size needed to obtain gauge
Seven 7/8" buttons
GAUGE:
17 sts and 26 rows = 5" in St st. TO SAVE TIME, TAKE THE TIME TO CHECK YOUR GAUGE.
ABBREVIATIONS:
S2KP2 - Sl 2 tog knitwise (as if you were going to k2tog), k1, pass the 2 sl sts over. The center marked st should be on top. For a complete list of abbreviations, click here.
NOTE:
Slip all sts as if to purl.
PATTERN STITCH:
See Charts.
BODY:
Using invisible cast on and larger ndl, CO 149, 161 (177, 197) sts. Turn and knit back. Continue to work back and forth in St st for 12 (14)" or 5 (4)" less than desired length to underarm, end with WS row, Place M after 36 front row sts from both sides; another 2, 8 (16, 26) underarm sts; 73 sts rem for Back. Mark center back st. Read rest of body patt, then work yoke of sweater from chart. Beg at start arrow. Read chart from right to left; bottom to top. Work across R top, underarm sts, back, other underarm and L front. Note:WS rows are not shown on chart for rows 1-63, but be sure to purl back. YOKE PATTERN: Row 1 (RS): knit to center back st, p1, knit rest of row. Row 3: k front, underarm sts and 35 back sts, p1, sl1 wyif, p1, k to end of row. Row 5: Patt starts on fronts also. Continue following chart through row 14 (8). DIVIDE FOR BACK AND FRONTS: Place 36 right front sts on holder, and the next 2, 8 (16, 26) sts on another holder for the underarm. Rep for the left front and underarm. The rem 73 back sts will be worked first.
BACK:
Join yarn on RS of back and work rem 73 sts following patt chart bed with row 15 (9). Row 64: P36, k1, p36. Rows 65 through 77: Follow chart. Row 68: Patt is worked on the WS - p2, *k1, sl1 wyib; rep from * end k1, p2. When you have finished row 77 place all sts on holder.
FRONT:
Row 15 (9): Join yarn to the 36 sts of RS of each front. Follow front chart through row 58. Row 59: K28, place rem 8 sts at front neck edge on holder; k28 sts. Purl back on both fronts. Row 61: Follow chart to last 3 sts; k2 tog, k1. Other side: k1, ssk, follow chart. Row 63: Follow chart dec as in row 61. Work straight, following chart through Row 77. SHOULDER: BO front and back shoulder sts tog on WS. Sleeves or borders can now be worked.
BORDERS:
Bottom: Place the loops formed by the invisible CO on smaller circular ndl. You must have an odd number of sts. Row 1 (WS): P2, *k1, sl1 wyib, rep from * to last 3 sts, k1, P2. Keep the first and last 2 sts of each row in St st for bottom and neck borders. Continue to follow chart. Work 13 rows of ribbing. BO loosely in rib.
NECK:
Knit neck sts on hold, pick up 2 sts to 3 rows on side of neck. There must be an odd number. Work rib as for bottom border for 6 rows. BO all sts.
BUTTONBAND:
Work button side first - left for women and right for men. With RS facing, knit up at a rate of *2 sts for 3 rows (2/3), then 1 st for 2 rows (1/2)*, rep bet *s one full st in along front edge except on bottom border until 85 (99) sts, if the length is as specified. The first and last st should be close to the top and bottom. If you have changed the length, the specified rate of pick-up will give you the right number of sts. Follow chart. FRONT BORDER: Work as before but start and end row with k1, or p1 (not 2). Rib for 9 rows. BO in rib. Front borders need to be blocked. They look short. Mark for 7 buttons evenly spaced. Rep rib for other side placing buttonholes opposite markings on row 5, by BO 2 sts and CO 2 sts over BO sts on next row.
SLEEVES:
With RS facing, larger 16" ndl, start at underarm and knit up *1/2, 2/3 sts/rows* as for the front border plus 1 st at the shoulder seam along armhole edge of front and back. Do not knit underarm sts. You will have approx 77 (85) sts. Work back and forth on all the sleeve sts in pattern. At the end of each row work the last st of row tog with the next st of the underarm. (WS - p2 tog, RS - ssk). It will take 2, 8 (16, 26) rows. Row 3, 9 (17, 27): Join. Knit or work in patt to last st, k2 tog - the first and last st. Mark this st with split marker or safety pin. It will always be knit and will form a "seam" stitch. Work circular in patt or work rest of sleeve in St st. Sleeve dec: Work to st before marked st, S2KP2. Continue to dec in this manner 18, 17 (20, 18) times or until you have 40, 42 (44, 48) sts or 10 sts more than needed for cuff - 30, 32 (34, 38) sts. Work until 17, 19 (21)" from shoulder to top of cuff, or 3 1/4" short of desired length. If you need a longer or shorter sleeve, slow down or speed up the rate of dec. Dec 10 sts evenly on next row. Change to smaller dpn and beg Row 1 of border patt. Work 13 rows of rib. BO in rib. Work other sleeve.
FINISHING:
Work a row of single crochet across top and bottom edge of front borders to help keep them even with the bottom and neck borders. Work in ends. Sew on buttons. Wet block.
